Summit for Sobriety

Let’s not take for granted
That friendly little deed
Of the kindly neighbor
Who recognized our need.

Let’s not take for granted,
The sunshine and the rain,
The peace that enfolds us
The day that’s free from pain.

Let’s not take for granted
The loyalty and smiles
Of one who’s walked beside us
These many weary miles.

Let’s not take for granted
These gifts that smooth our way;
Instead let’s express
Our gratitude each day.

-Dora L. King

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The Climb

Mount Rainier is a massive stratovolcano located an hour outside of Seattle, Washington. One of the most prominent mountains in the United States, Rainier stands at 14,411 feet. It is considered one of the three most dangerous volcanoes in the world. Climbing Mount Rainier is difficult, requiring a traverse of the largest glacier in the continental United States. Roughly half of the attempted summits of Mount Rainier are successful. Rock fall, crevasses, avalanche, weather, and other potential dangers cause deaths each year on the mountain.

“We would rather die up there sober than experience another day in our addiction.”

Meant to symbolize the struggles associated with all recovering people, Andy and Tommy’s climb may be easy compared to what life used to be like.

Itinerary: courtesy of Rainier Mountaineering Inc.

Day 1:

3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at base camp.

Throughout the afternoon our guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.

Day 2:

8:15 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.: Meet at base camp.

The entire day is spent training on the lower snow slopes of Mt. Rainier, just above Paradise between 6,000 and 6,600 feet.

On this day you will be introduced to a number of skills, from the basic techniques of efficient mountain travel (rest-stepping and pressure breathing) through cramponing, roped travel, and ice axe arrest practices.

Days 3 & 4: The Summit Climb

8:15 a.m.: Meet at base camp.

Day 3: Check-in at Rainier base camp. Team assembles in preparation for the trip to Camp Muir. After a short team meeting, the shuttle departs for Paradise, and our Summit Climb begins.

The Summit Climb takes place over the course of two days. On the first day we hike to Camp Muir, and on the second day we make the attempt on Mt. Rainier and return to Rainier base camp.

The hike from Paradise (5,400') to Camp Muir (10,060') is nearly 4.5 miles, and will take us most of the day. The hike travels through the spectacular alpine zone and onto the Muir Snowfield, named after John Muir who climbed the peak in 1888. The Snowfield is climbed for some 3,000 vertical feet, opening up grand vistas of the wooded lowlands and flanking glaciers. Groups typically climb for about an hour or so and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.

Once at Camp Muir, the climb leader will address the specifics regarding the rest of the climb, including route conditions, food, equipment, clothing recommendations, and any further questions you might have. Accommodations at Muir consist of a small mountain hut with bunks and sleeping pads. After dinner we will retire to our sleeping bags to rest for the upcoming summit attempt.

Day 4: Early in the morning we don ropes, crampons, helmets, and grab our ice axes. The route on the upper mountain changes continually but typically begins with a rising traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier and then ascends the pumiced switchbacks of Cathedral Gap. This allows us to gain the mighty Ingraham Glacier, from which we will then access either the Ingraham Glacier or Disappointment Cleaver routes; the actual route choice will be determined by many factors and will be left to the professional discretion of your guides. The steeper Ingraham Headwall or Disappointment Cleaver will be the physical crux of the route. The remaining slopes and hours are whittled away as we zig and zag through the crevasses of the upper mountain. It is truly a spectacular climb, and one that you will remember for a long while to come. As we make our ascent, we climb steadily for one to two hours at a stretch, and then break for 10 to 15 minutes. The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on the weather), we begin the descent to Camp Muir. This takes about half the time of the ascent, and also requires significant effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.) Once back at Camp Muir, the group will take a break and pack for the final hike down to Paradise.